Hikers in the night
It has become midnight and we select separate beds and go to bed. The sound of rain outside is soothing, we fall asleep. But the events of the day is not over yet.
At two o’clock at night I wake up suddenly by a knock on the front door and it opened. A man, even wetter than Anastassija was before, rising up and saying something like: “Here it is certainly full.” Then he runs out and the door closed. I’m dazed and it takes a few minutes before I can think clearly. Where did the man go? I go out and knock on the door to the woodshed (it’s locked from the inside). The man opens. He says he can sleep there but he’d like to borrow some blankets. And so his equipment soaking wet so he needs drying space. Important things end up inside the nödrummet, otherwise he can spread out in the woodshed.So he says: “But I know you. We’ve met somewhere.” Oddly, how can it be that almost every person I meet think I look familiar? But we do not sort it out right then, I just want to bed.
The next morning we’ll meet again. The man named Mats and now he has come where we met: because we have lived in the same staircase in a student house in Lund 35 years ago! This is not wise. It is apparently the Padjelantaleden you’re going to see again friends and acquaintances. And to meet new.
The rain continues during the morning. Mats says that he started from Staloluokta two days earlier. He has visited Alkavare and is now on the road to Kvikkjokk, like me. We decide to go along. I realize that this trip is becoming one of the most social of the mountain trips I made.Additionally, full of surprises of the most diverse kinds.
Our first goal is Tarrekaise. We shall not sleep there, Mats fit a bus in Kvikkjokk day. As we go, we have a lot to talk about. Partly things that go far back in time, and how our life looks like now. It gets more calls than naturskåderi. And the hours go by fast when you are two.
Above: Tarra River in the rain.
When we come to Tarrekaise we make of our backpacks outside the cottage. It’s still raining. No landlord and full of people in nödrummet.There is no place. What do we do now? We are thinking of a break in the woodshed, perhaps.
Then we’ll see people out on the meadow below. Could it be warden?Yes, indeed, she and her two children have just arrived by helicopter. The children are stuck down in the meadow with a heavy pack. No one in the house seems to want to go out in the rain and help; Instead, they want the help to get the cottage unlocked. Mats and I have already waterproofs on and rescuing the children and help them with the gasket. Meadow proves a high örtdjungel stream with grooves and trenches, difficult to force.
Landlord would not really be in place until two days we will know. But now she’s here anyway, and certainly long overdue. She is keen to unlock and help in any way. We also learn that the STF just this year decided to postpone the arrival of the hosts. It is completely incomprehensible.How many walkers who go Padjelantaleden have missed it? People are surprised, some even angry.
Mats and I end up in one of the rooms along with a man from Sweden (as they are, after all). Others come from other countries. There will be fire in the stove, which for me is an almost incomprehensible luxury. Mats and I cook and sleep for a while after eating. Then we go out in the drizzle again. When we passed a little while, we meet three people; two of them are cabin hosts. A must to Vaimok, another to Pieskejaure. I can tell relatively fresh news about how it was on Nordkalottleden, because I recently been there with my friends (even though we were not quite right in front of the cabins in Pieskejaure).
Towards Njunjesstugan we pass an imaginative formation in the rock, like a giant archway (the small bright area in the middle of the picture).The place is called Basseuksa, the holy door, and is an old Sami sacrificial site. The naturally formed gate said to be about 18 meters high, 25 meters wide and up to 4 meters deep.
Quite late in the evening, Mats and I concluded Njunjesstugan. There is now a landlord. But here is a problem with the payment. I find that my membership card remains in Kvikkjokk, so I can not prove. And my cash is not enough, and even less because I have to pay a higher fee for non-members. Though the higher sum is not the whole world, I can see it as a contribution to a good cause. But how should I go about to pay? Invoice out of the question, it is the hosts received instructions.
But Njunjes have mobile coverage and the landlord is that you can book via phone at STF’s website. The new technology is therefore the solution!We start; my bankapp I already functioning. But it does not help. The cell phone stuck at the end of the booking procedure and just stand and chew at STF’s webpage. It has already taken three quarters and the clock is half past twelve. After another while, we give up.
As well, Mats cash and lend to me. You may ask how it had gone otherwise. Apparently, a walking between STF cabins planned very carefully so as not to have to sleep on a rock or in the birch forest. This applies also to look ahead to the future, if I start with the intention to stay in tents. (But when it comes to the STF’s own ability to advance planning, it is not particularly well off. They have not realized that Padjelantaleden will have a lot of visitors who expect to open cottages during the first week of July. Or, in the worst case, they have not thought it was important.)