How to Buy a Used Bike

Bike culture: buying a used bike need not be difficult. Follow our checklist on 7 points to avoid all the pitfalls.

Firstly:

* Ask to see the original receipt and note the seller’s data on the receipt if you buy the bike.

* Refrain from buying cycle if the frame number (stamped in the bottom bracket or pipe) seems to be manipulated.

* Do you suspect that your bike can be stolen – call the police on 11414.

Check this

  1. The framework

The bike should be clean, otherwise you can not examine the framework properly and detect cracks. Look carefully at the carbon fork front ends, around vevlagerhuset, the Steering head, around the saddle post inserting it in the frame and at the re-positioning.

  1. Wheels

The wheels must be straight and round both across and down. Little strokes in any direction possible to draw away, but a stirring wheel several centimetres back and forth so is wheel driven. Grab the wheel and try wiggling it from side to side. No gaps should be check the tires, no cracks or cuts should be. Remove the wheels out of the frame and rotate the shaft with your fingers. No “hack” may be felt. The rim must not be nedbromsad and have a concave surface.

  1. Bottom Bracket

Hold firmly to the frame with one hand and grasp the crank (crank arms should be straight, of equal length and not sönderskrapade) with your other hand and bend sharply on the sideways in order to detect any looseness in the bottom bracket. Check out at the same time, not the pedals fit snugly.

  1. Control inventory

Braking with the front brake and rock the bike firmly back and forth. No gaps can exist.The control layer to run so easily to the front wheel directly fall aside when you lift the bike in the top tube. Rotate the front wheel in the “hack”, it is a sign of a too tightly adjusted or damaged control layer.

  1. Bills of Exchange

See the gears good without a lot of dirt and works when test bikes so it’s usually ok. Are your teeth on the cartridge or the crankset blades pointed they are worn. Find a cycle in which you do not need to replace the entire power train after you bought the bike. Expensive!

  1. Control the wind, seat, brake pads, cables

Check that everything is clean. If not then the control wrapping, brake pads and cables cheap to replace.

  1. Provcykla

All switches to function smoothly and precisely. If you have to persuade the chain to switch with the shifting lever as this may indicate wear or worn wires. Modern shifters of STI and Ergopower model is expensive. Consider carefully before you buy a bicycle with worn shifter. The brakes should take soft and firm.

If everything feels good and you feel like the bike so make a quick estimation:

What cost the bike like new? The bike loses half its value every three years. What does it cost to fix it up to like-new condition? The total may exceed the original price of the bike.

TIPS from the EstateRealest below.

* Is the cycle of the right size for you?

* Release cycle from a few centimeters in height. It should not sound as if something is loose.

* Cycle to track straight. Check this by (gently) ride without holding the handlebars. Track the bike sideways, like a crab, check that the wheels are attached properly and squarely in the frame. If the cycle does not scroll properly, so look for another bike instead.

* Scratches on seat, brake lever and rear derailleur may indicate that the bike has vurpats.Check cycle extra carefully.

* Check that the seating position works for you when you test bikes. Is a stem in the proper length?

* Pedals are exposed which means that they often look worn out but works just fine.

* Is the frame, handlebar stem, handlebars and seatpost made from carbon fiber? Check these extra carefully for cracks. It is easy to crush a carbon seat post with sadelstolpsklämman.

* Full suspension mountain bikes: does the suspension front fork and bakdämpningen properly? Works setting knobs? Is there any looseness in the bushings or leads? Can be expensive to fix and difficult to find the right parts.