Bike Downhill Technique

Our site: the line selection, position, braking technique and fluency. They are the four cornerstones you need to master in order to be able to enjoy more in nerförsbacken. Here’s how!

When you ride, you usually need to perform not think about pedalling, unless you have very hurry down. Devote instead focus for line selection, position on the bike and braking technology and most of all – to find the flow! It’s in utforskorningen you get a reward for all the swearing and sweat on the way up. 

Just as with any other technology learning, start gently and gradually increase the difficulty. Once you become comfortable with technology and learn how your body, bicycle and the reptilian brain (that which says that every little scarp is actually a dödsstup) behaves, you can begin to challenge yourself. You develop as most when you push your limits. But, let it be checked and in your pace. If you think downhill driving most feel uncomfortable and not all that fun, it may be because you are trying to rush up your progress too quickly.
Different bikes are good for different types of cycling. How you experience utförscyklingen depends not only on your technique, guts or bike settings, but also on how your bike looks like. The frame’s geometry, the angle of the front fork, wheelbase, the stroke of the shock absorbers are examples of details that affect the way the cycle behaves when it brantar to. Therefore, do not get frustrated if you see your friend unhindered danger down a hairy steep on its utförshoj, while bouncing down a flipperkula on your rejsiga crosscountry-bike.

Lower the saddle to make it easier to go back with your hips and to avoid saddle kicks you in the backside when it becomes stötigt.

Release a little air from the tyres for increased contact between tires and surface. Drop out a little at a time, to experiment a bit until you have enough good grip without risk of impact becomes too high.

For larger obstacles, type drop and large rocks, you can use slower rebound damping. The trail is stylish, messy with roots and small stones, you can have faster rebound damping.Please run the same path several times and test various settings to find the one that suits you.

Adjust the distance to handlebar handle so you can easily reach them with your index finger while you have the other fingers remain on the handlebars. It wont be a set screw on the brake lever.

Brake technology – when there are obstacles
Planning is everything when you’re cycling technically performed. Plan where you can slow down. And were you absolutely should not slow down. We take an example. You reach an obstacle in the downward slope, for example, a protruding stone. Brakes just before there is a great risk that your front wheel is pressed, it is a grinding halt and you continue to travel down. But not your bike.

Try to release the brakes completely and roll over the obstruction – using any front wheel coming across by being easy on the handlebar and adjust your center of gravity backwards if necessary – to first after the obstacle slow down again. Your bike will take you more than you think, just you do not pinch the brakes before the stone or root.

Brake technology – when the going gets steep
Why? You have more weight on the front wheel than back at the downhill driving, which means that the risk to front wheel lockup is smaller. But, as with the technical downhill driving is also planning where to brake and avoid the pinch too hard. If the front wheel locks up you basically lose all ability to steer. And the risk that you crashing is high.Sometimes a locking of the rear wheel help you fend off and find the right in difficult descents. Test the first skid on a basis where you feel safe, and then proceed in a little bit more difficult terrain.

USE AS FEW FINGERS ON THE BRAKE LEVER, PREFERABLY JUST THE INDEX FINGER Why? The more fingers you have on the control handle, the better the power and control you have over the handlebars, and the smaller is the risk that you are going to be tired in the arms and hands. Modern brakes are so good that you only need the power from one finger to get sufficient braking effect.

Why? As long as the wheels rolls, you have a good grip. When the wheels are locked and you start to skid, you have almost no control over the bike and travel. At worst, it is a tree in the way of your new, randomly selected line. Or a cliff. Again, plan where to slow down and where you need to scroll.

When the brantar on, fend off the slope by lifting her bottom from the saddle and pushing the hips back. The steeper the longer rear, slipping on the bike. If it is true tokbrant you gonna be so far back that you almost sit on the rear wheel and your arms are basically straight (but still not locked). Your center of gravity, though, just as in the basic position, be straight over the pedals. Be sure to have pressure on the front wheel and steer where you’re going, even when you are far behind on the bike.

Your joints work as extra dampers and gives you the mobility you need to move the body weight behind or to the sides to fend off. Press your heels and ache not solid saddle between the legs without song cycle to move freely and take up ironed out on the slopes.

Keep pedals horizontal to get better balance and reduce the risk of hitting the rocks and other obstacles. Have your favorite foot forward, i.e. the foot that gives you the best balance and control, but also training on shifting feet.